ZOE & PEARL · GUIDES
Understanding pearl quality
Look beyond a letter grade. Learn to notice the details that make a pearl yours.
What does AAA really tell you?
Letter grades such as AA, AAA or AAAA are often a seller’s own shorthand. They are not a single universal scale shared by every pearl retailer. Ask what a grade means for that seller: which characteristics are assessed, how surface marks are described and whether any independent report accompanies the specific item.
A grade label and a laboratory report do different jobs. Do not assume that a product has been independently tested simply because its description uses a high grade.
Seven details worth understanding
Lustre
Notice the brightness and definition of reflections. Compare similar pearl types under the same light.
Surface
Look for pits, ridges or marks. Their extent and position matter more than the existence of a single tiny mark.
Shape
Roundness offers symmetry; baroque forms offer individuality. Shape preference is also a design choice.
Colour
Consider the main body colour and any overtones, and ask whether colour treatments are disclosed.
Size
Compare diameter in millimetres. Bigger alone does not mean better quality.
Nacre
The pearl’s lustrous layers influence appearance and durability. A photograph cannot measure their thickness.
Matching
For pairs or strands, consider how well the pearls work together in tone, shape and overall appearance.
A simple shopping checklist
- Read the stated pearl type, size range and shape.
- Look at close-ups as well as the wearing photograph.
- Check whether the price includes a chain, one pearl or a pair.
- Ask about any treatment or independent report that matters to your purchase.
What a photograph cannot confirm
Natural versus cultured origin and some treatments require specialist testing. Laboratories use techniques including X-radiography to examine internal structures. A home scratch or tooth test is not a substitute for identification and may damage a pearl.